A Food Tour in Lisbon: Grapes & Bites

 

In preparation for my trip to Portugal last summer, I diligently studied up on vinho verde. I use the term "study" loosely, but it made a great afterwork apertif. Vinho verde, literally "green wine", is the term used to describe young wine. It has just a hint of effervescence to it and a low alcohol content, making it the perfect wine to enjoy after a sweltering summer day.

I wanted to learn more about the food and wine history of Portugal so I decided to take a private food history tour of Lisbon, through the tour company Your Friend in Lisbon. In addition to learning local history and sampling specialties (including ginjinha, caracois-- otherwise known as garden snails, and the satisfyingly decadent pastel de nata), my affable guide Alex closed up our tour with a fabulous offering at Grapes & Bites in the Bairro Alto district. 

The friendly owners brought out two boards of amazing meats including pata negra and one with roasted pepper swirls. I tried local cheeses, nuts, and sauces (including an addictive pepper jam, which sadly didn't make it through airport security). Alongside this smorgasboard, I was treated to several different olive oils, fresh olives, and of course, a vinho verde tasting. 

At the end, they brought me a glass of port, though I had my doubts since I don't like dessert wines. Although sweet, it wasn't overly so and it had a smooth finish and a lot of depth- you might even call me a converted port fan. 

If you find yourself in Lisbon this summer, I highly recommend this informative and interactive tour-- it was the best money I spent while in Lisbon. 

Junibacken: Children's Museum in Stockholm

When in Stockholm, you might skip over the children's museum in favor of something a bit more grown-up. You'd be mistaken. Junibacken was one of my favorite sites in Stockholm. Perhaps it has to do with my Peter Pan syndrome or affinity for Pippi Longstocking but nevertheless, I highly recommend Junibacken for people of all ages. As I walked up to the entrance, I couldn't help but be amazed by the orderly line of strollers outside. No one seemed too concerned about theft and they were organized in a perfect row. Inside, the museum was filled with gleeful young children and fatigued parents yet I felt no shame in being there. An admission ticket includes a ride on the "story train," an enjoyable experience into a Swedish literary wonderland. It's a magical journey through orchards, snowy villages, and larger than life scenes.

The other highlight of the museum is the replica of Pippi Longstocking's house. Head on over to the museum and transport yourself back in time, if only for a day.  

Junibacken is located at Galärvarvsvägen 8, 115 21 Stockholm, Sweden

Solo Travel in Malta: Hostel Malti in St. Julian's

Last summer I embarked on my first "Solo Trip."  I stayed with friends in Turkey, the Canary Islands, and the Costa Brava, but the rest of my travels were truly "solo."  In Malta, I stayed at Hostel Malti and it was the best lodging experience of my entire trip!

I arrived on a Sunday evening and Aaron, one of Hostel Malti's managers came down to the lobby to help me check in.  He explained that I had arrived in time for their weekly rooftop BBQ so I made my way up there after dropping off my bags.  11 euros buys you tasty grilled meats, salads, and all the sangria your heart desires.  Everyone was really friendly and welcoming and having dinner under the open air (while fireworks exploded in the sky for one of Malta's ubiquitous summer festivals) was the perfect way to kick off my stay.

Everyone working at Hostel Malti was fabulous.  Aaron took us out my first night there and showed us the buzzing nightlife of St. Julians.  Chris, Hostel Malti's owner, was just as awesome and helped drive us to the boat to Comino one day.  (If you get the chance, ride in the back of the jeep- you won't regret it!)

Another thing I loved about Hostel Malti was the delicious "English" breakfast cooked by in-house jack-of-all-trades, Violetta, a sweet woman from Spain.  Breakfasts are optional but I sure didn't mind forking over 4 euros every morning to enjoy her hearty home-cooked fare.  I loved the roasted peppers and onions and the meat, eggs, and beans were all I needed to get my day started on the right foot.  (I didn't even need to eat until dinner.)

What would Hostel Malti be without its resident cat?  This cutie often hung out by the front door, and most definitely knew all the goings-on about Hostel Malti's travelers.

In a nutshell:
PROS
☻welcoming community environment (There were many solo travelers and everyone in the hostel hung out together)
☻cost (very, very reasonable)
☻location (just up the steep hill from the beach and nightlife)
☻food (Sunday rooftop BBQs, tasty breakfasts)

CONS
☻none!

One more cool thing I experienced?
A blowout for 9 euros by the lovely Joana.  I noticed her ad on Hostel Malti's bulletin board in the common area.  My long, curly hair and the Maltese sun and saltwater don't mix so I took advantage of Joana's great deal.  I called and booked an appointment and she showed up with her blowdryer and gave me a grew blowout for my last night in Malta.  (Be sure and wash your hair right before your appointment so that it is ready to be blow-dried as she does not have these facilities.)

Hostel Malti is located at 41 Birkirkara Hill, Ta' Giorni in St Julians, Malta

Puget Sound Bite: Essex Bar in Seattle

Essex is the neighborhood bar I've always wanted- the place to nurse a stiff drink, eat good food, chat with your friendly bartender, or just zone out. It is also, unfortunately, all the way across town, in Ballard. I live in the "boonies" -- of Seattle, that is. The nearest coffee shop requires a hike up one of Seattle's no-joke hills and even then, you're still not there. The only nearby businesses are a car repair shop and a private office space. As much as I love having a quiet escape to come home to, I'm envious of the city's more vibrant neighborhoods. 

Essex is the place to go for those tired of watered-down, overly sweet drinks. Cocktails pack a punch here so I recommend starting slowly. Interesting combinations regularly appear on the menu and I appreciate the fact that the menu is constantly rotating.

The food complements the complex drinks nicely- dishes are simple, with few ingredients and lots of flavor. Currently, an asparagus dish with hazelnut romesco and Pecorino is calling my name. Blistered shishito peppers drizzled in lime juice and salt might be an end-of-summer option. Dessert could be local peaches and yogurt. Whatever's on the seasonal menu, you can bet it'll go well with your craft cocktail. (House-made grapefruit bitters and Fernet are the norm, not the exception.) Essex's website is minimalist at its best, so check out the Facebook page for the latest food and drink updates.

Essex is located at1421 NW 70th St.

Globus Department Store in Lausanne

The Globus department store in Lausanne has a splendid grocery section on the lower level. We're talking cheeses you dream of, fresh squeezed juice combinations like orange-pineapple-basil, a vast selection of interesting produce (including the famous chasselas grapes), and a freezer section well-stocked with Movenpick ice cream. It's pretty hard to to complain when you're in these walls.  

Just outside the store is the Brezelkonig pretzel stand. On my trip, I made several meals out of this "snack." The pretzel dough was soft and chewy, studded with flecks of salt, and slathered with Swiss butter on the inside. I found the grison (air-dried beef) pretzel to be the best, though the other fillings were delicious as well.

I was blown away by the quality of the candy here. Not only were these picture-perfect confections gorgeous, but they tasted every bit as good, with hints of rose and the finest sugar dusted on top.

You shouldn't leave Lausanne without stopping here first- many of the foods would make great gifts for friends back home. (I might even suggest attempting to smuggle their cheeses past customs. But don't say who told you to do it.)

Scenes from Paris

Some scenes from my trip to Paris last October:

Paris wouldn't be Paris without a protest at Bastille.

Prima Bistro in Langley

Washington state is home to many quaint island communities including Whidbey Island. One of my oldest and dearest friends used to live there and farm for a living. Visits to her often included lunch at our favorite cafe on the island: Prima Bistro. The restaurant is situated on the second floor of the building and we would always sit at the window table, for a beautiful view of the sound. (You might be lucky and get to see a grey whale as we did last time!)

 Creamy burrata and tapenade with fresh bread

 

Prima burger

Panna cotta

A grey whale!

A Wedding in Maine

My childhood memories of summer visits to Maine often include mosquito bite souvenirs, dips in the frigid waters of the Atlantic, and playing late-night capture-the-flag. I hadn't been back to the beautiful state for ages, but last August, I attended my cousin's wedding at the Barn at Flanagan Farm in Buxton, ME. The ceremony took place in the magical woods under a canopy my cousins and uncle had constructed out of driftwood. Before arriving to the ceremony, everyone walked through the sun-dotted woods and got a drink (delicious gin cocktails which helped keep my vicious cold at bay) before heading to the seating area. The ceremony was short and sweet (just like I like it) and after taking photos, we all headed back to the barn area for cocktail hour.

There was a gorgeous spread of cheeses, meats, dips, crackers, and other finger food, while servers came around with other appetizers. 

As night began to fall, we moved into the barn for dinner and enjoyed amazing lobster pasta (caught by the groom's uncle!) and other dishes.

In true Maine fashion, the wedding cake featured blueberries and we were all given jars of the fruit to take home.

The lovely evening concluded with a sparkler send-off for the bride and groom. Congratulations!

Squash on Toast Recipe (from ABC Kitchen)

It took one viewing of Mark Bittman's video with Jean-Georges Vongerichten to know the next thing I wanted to make in the kitchen- squash on toast. Imagine this: pan-toasted rustic bread slathered with a layer of fresh ricotta (I love this California brand, Bellwether Farms) and topped with a butternut squash-caramelized onion mixture. Finally, a dash of fresh mint is sprinkled on top. It was probably the best thing on toast I have ever eaten. In fact, my dinner last night consisted of this toast and red wine. 

I followed the recipe pretty much to a T (I think it tastes great with butternut squash) but I might even add more onions next time. The caramelization makes them deliciously sweet but they break down in the process, so a bit more wouldn't have hurt. It's the first time I've truly caramelized onions (it took about 30 minutes overall) and I used apple cider vinegar and maple syrup a friend brought from Canada. 

As Bittman mentions, the mint on top takes the dish to another level. Somehow, the sweet and tangy onions, the smooth squash, and creamy ricotta all come together with the herb.

Caramelizing onions (patience required!)

Café du Grütli: Fondue in Lausanne

The gloomy October weather in Lausanne didn't stop us from enjoying the city. It did, however, make us crave comfort food, and what better way to indulge in Switzerland than with fondue? Upon recommendation by a salesperson at the Globus department store, we headed to Café du Grütli on our last evening. 

I love restaurants run by a husband-and-wife team and we instantly felt welcomed by the friendly pair as we walked in the door. The humble and cozy cafe specializes in traditional Swiss dishes and despite an obnoxiously loud and drunk British man a few tables away, we appreciated our dinner. Bread and melted cheese may not be the most complete meal (at least from the point of view of nutritionists), but I can't think of a better combination. 

I was thrilled that Café du Grütli had Gruyère double cream on offer. (I was determined to try it after hearing David Lebovitz write about it.) A true Swiss dessert, double cream is not for the faint of heart. (In Switzerland, it is regulated and must be at least 45% fat content.) I like to think its richness is meant to give sustenance to hearty Swiss mountaineers. It comes with meringues and you can simply spoon the cream on top. While overconsumption of Gruyère double cream could definitely lead to a heart attack, I can't think of a better way to go. (Well, maybe with kaymak.)

Café du Grütli is located at Rue de la Mercerie 4 in Lausanne. Reservations recommended.