Ristorante da Ciccio in Agropoli

"peasant food"

Sometimes my brothers and I give our mom grief for her ability to strike up a (long) conversation with anyone, even when it means holding up a line, but truthfully, her talent is an asset when traveling. From a Swiss-Tunisian laundromat owner extending an invitation to dinner, to a friendly Calabrian cooking for us out of a shack on the beach, my travel experiences are better thanks to her. 

One of these special moments occurred after wandering all around the Campanian town of Agropoli a few years ago. It was that awkward time between lunch and dinner when many restaurants in Europe are closed, but we were starving. After asking random people in the street where we should eat, an older woman recommended Ciccio and called him to see if he was open. Like everywhere else, he wasn't, but he offered to open his restaurant and feed the starving Americans. Ciccio's food is simple and represents the region and its history as a traditionally poor land. One of my favorite dishes consisted of crusty day-old bread revived with pungent olive oil , fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and imperfectly torn pieces of basil. Extravagant it was not- it represented peasant food of the region, but I felt like a queen eating it. 

As Ciccio's restaurant's website states, "The recipes of The Cilento represent a veritable ode to local products and traditions that are passed down the generations." There has been a lot of discussion about going back to the roots of a region, peasant food, and the like. The New York Times recently ran an article about an Italian DJ ("Donpasta") who's made it his mission to preserve Italian culinary traditions. He isn't interested in high cuisine or TV programs like Master Chef encroaching onto Italy's culinary scene. Neither is Ciccio. Ristorante da Ciccio does an excellent job of showing the region's simplicity and the food shines. We returned the following year for another great lunch and here are some of the things we ate.

Eating in Les Baux de Provence

I'm not the biggest fan of heavy French dishes, which is why I love Provencal cuisine.  The food is lighter and more reminiscent of Italy and the Mediterranean.  On our first day in Provence this past March, we had lunch on the terrace of a hotel in Les Baux.  The restaurant of La Reine Jeanne was unassuming but the cuisine was impressive.  It was here that I indulged in the best aioli of my life, served simply with vegetables.  The requisite rosé made the rounds and we enjoyed fresh local food and drink under the warm Provencal sun.  

Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne is located at the beginning of the town in les Baux de Provence.

Amsterdam

Despite getting sick during my trip to Amsterdam last year, I really liked the feel of the city.  I think I would enjoy it even more in the summer.  After getting the hang of watching out for bikes, the city started to grow on me, fever and all.  Some highlights of my stay included: a concert at the Concertgebouw, the Van Gogh Museum and Anne Frank's house, the floating flower market, wandering the endless canals, and finally, a (centuries-old!) quirky pharmacy right near our hotel.  I went in for cough drops and came out feeling like I'd traveled back in time.  I definitely want to return to this shop, Jacob Hooy and Co., next time I'm in town.  For more on Amsterdam, check out this post on a delicious local bakery, and here for a recap of a tasty Indonesian-influenced meal.  Below are some pictures I took.

My Salerno

Salerno will always hold a special place in my heart.  First and foremost, I still have cousins that live there.  It was from this part of Italy that my great-grandfather immigrated to Boston, where he met my great-grandmother from Friuli.  Ever since my first visit to Campania, my relatives have always been the most hospitable, wonderful family.  But aside from my personal attachment to Salerno, this is a beautiful part of Italy.  Salerno is a sizable city not far south of Naples.  That means lots of good pizza as well as a rich culture. It's close enough to the pretty yet touristy towns of Positano and Amalfi, and far enough away that you can return in the evening and walk among Italians dressed in their finest, tasting an ice cream cone, and lingering about during their passeggiata.  

 

Ancient botanical gardens

Gulf of Salerno

Dinner at the cousins!

My favorite part of the trip is every night when we sit down for dinner where we partake in simple food at its best.  They make their tomato sauce once a year and bottle it up to use for the next twelve months.  We enjoy vegetables like green beans, roasted peppers, zucchini, and a simple lettuce salad-everything tastes like it was picked from the garden a few minutes ago.  We'll finish with different cheeses- buffalo mozzarella of course, some parmigiano, and another type perhaps.  And finally, melon, gelato, and cake for whoever still has room.

Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport

 On my way home from Greece, I had a 4.5 hour layover at JFK.  As expected, it wasn't the greatest.  I kept thinking back to my 4 hour layover in Amsterdam at the beginning of the trip.  I'd only been to Amsterdam by train before, but after spending time at Schiphol Airport, I can't think of a better place to make a flight connection.  It all started with the shockingly friendly and polite folks at passport control and things went uphill from there.  As we walked the terminal to kill time, I noticed how bright and clean everything looked.  We were hungry and right in front of us stood a beautifully designed cafe with tempting lunch items.  There I enjoyed the best airport sandwich of my life (made-to-order smoked salmon with red onion) and a glass of fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice, although there were more interesting combinations as well including kiwi and even sangria.  After a leisurely lunch, we used the free wireless internet and stretched out on recliners facing a floor-to-ceiling window.  Then we wandered up the escalator where we were transported to an airport oasis of green lushness.  There was an indoor park, complete with artificial trees and grass, bird sounds, charging stations of course, and beanbag chairs to boot!  We enjoyed a little pause, taking in the zen atmosphere, before I noticed a sign for hourly/overnight bookings at a hotel-shower space starting at 35 euros. 

I can't think of how many times I've wanted a nap or quick shower during a long layover and if I ever return to Amsterdam in that situation, I would definitely check it out.  We continued on our exploration, this time going outside to an outdoor space where there was a picnic area, more greenery, and a nice view of the airport to watch planes take off and land.  

This was the highlight of the airport for me.  I don't know of another airport where you can go outside to relax once you're past security.  We enjoyed the fresh air and wandered around a bit more until it was time for our next destination: Athens!

Caffe Spinnato in Palermo

Caffe Spinnato is one of those cafes with a deep history, like Cafe Flore or Les Deux Magots in Paris.  A major difference with Caffe Spinnato, however, is that a glance at the prices on the menu does not induce a heart-attack.  They still attract locals with their amazing food, ice cream, and pastries.  The interior of the cafe has an old world feel to it- it used to be the establishment for Palermo's elite and in some ways still is.  On any given day, you will find businessmen in suits, multi-generational families, and young lovers tucked away in corners ignoring their caffè.  

We enjoyed a delicious spaghetti alla Trapanese

After enjoying a leisurely lunch, we walked over to the pastry case and saw the most attractive and scrumptious-looking cake.  They cut us a slice and brought it back to our table.

Caffe Spinnato is located on Via Principe del Belmonte in Palermo

Joan's on Third: Roof Picnic in LA

Last month we went to Joan's on Third and took it back to T.'s apartment for a rooftop picnic before heading to the airport.  The moment I walked into Joan's, I was in foodie heaven.  It was almost too much to handle it was that amazing.  Yes there were long lines, but the service was so professional, efficient, and helpful that everything moved smoothly.  I recommend getting the focaccia- there are three great flavors: grape, lemon zest w/ salt, and cherry tomato.  We also indulged in the delicious made-to-order sandwiches.  Since it can be crowded during certain hours, I think Joan's is best enjoyed as take-out, although there are tables both inside and on the sidewalk.  They have every drink you could imagine, so we picked up some fun bottles of sparkling lemonade since it was a picnic afterall.  

And as it was our last afternoon before heading back up north, we had to have some Pinkberry since the flavor was blood orange!!

Joan's on Third is located at 8350 W 3rd St. in Los Angeles

Hotel Misc in Amsterdam

On my first trip to Amsterdam, I decided to stay at the Hotel Misc (Eat Drink Sleep) after reading about it online.  The location was great- it was a relatively easy 10 minute walk from the train station to the hotel.  My three favorite things about the hotel were: the breakfasts, overall comfort, and the location.

Insanely comfortable beds

 Unlimited complimentary mini-bar

Peaceful garden view

 Delicious daily breakfasts (amazing granola, toast and jam, cheese and meat, croissants, bacon and eggs, fruit, fresh-squeezed OJ, etc.)

Hotel Misc is located at Kloveniersburgwal 20 in Amsterdam