Copenhagen Guide

Necessary attire for my free walking tour

Gearing up for an outdoor concert at the museum

Moving exhibit at the Louisiana Museum

Top-notch yogurt at my home-away-from-hostel, Kompa'9

Coming from Tunisia this past August, Copenhagen was a complete change (including the unseasonably dreary weather) but I embraced the Scandinavian city and tried to find my inner hygge!*

Where I stayed: Copenhagen Downtown Hostel

PROS: good location, nightly family dinner for a nominal fee, luggage storage for a fee

CONS: very big and informal, pricey

Good places to eat/drink

• Kompa'9- quaint breakfast/lunch spot for decked-out yogurt, good coffee/tea, delicious unfiltered apple juice, friendly service, and free wi-fi, all in a very Scandinavian pinterest-esque setting
• Torvehallerne Market for smørrebrød, aka open-faced sandwiches, at Hallernes
• Streetfood on Paper Island for great international food (I heard from several people that it may be closing so get there quick)
• Ruby for excellent craft cocktails. I walked past the place twice thinking I was lost. The signage to this place is very discreet- if the sign says you're at the Georgian embassy, you've come to the right place. Just take the first right once inside the building, sit at the bar, and watch the mixologists do their magic.

Things to do:

• Nyhavn- walk around the harbor and take in the picturesque buildings
• Louisiana Museum- this may be one of my favorite museums ever, as the entire grounds make up the museum and there is art and beauty to take in whether you are inside at an exhibition, or outside enjoying the seaside, sculptures, and live music that I was lucky to enjoy. (Yayoi Kusama's "Gleaming Lights of the Souls" is a favorite exhibition.)
• Tivoli Gardens- has bragging rights as the world's second oldest amusement park (the other one also in Denmark). Come here to test your fear of heights, listen to live music, stroll through the gardens, and relive your childhood.

Interesting observation:

• *On my free walking tour, I learned more about the danish concept of "hygge" which very loosely translates to cosiness (although it seems difficult to translate). Visit Denmark says that hygge "is as Danish as pork roast and it goes far in illuminating the Danish soul. In essence, hygge means creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people. The warm glow of candlelight is hygge. Friends and family – that’s hygge too. There's nothing more hygge than sitting round a table, discussing the big and small things in life." For whatever reason, hygge seems to be all the rage now thanks to a recent New York Times article.

Torvehallerne

Can't go to Denmark without having smørrebrød

Rooftop views in Copenhagen

Tivoli Gardens madness- somehow I thought getting on this torture device would be fun

Craft cocktails at Ruby

On the left: a "postie fizz" containing homemade rhubarb syrup, geranium leaves, blanca rum, lemon juice, egg white, and soda water

On the right: a "green bees" made up of pisco, thyme, sorrel, and honey

Daytrip from Split to Krka National Park in Croatia

When A. and I were planning the Croatia leg of our summer 2014 Eurotrip, we wanted to see the well-known Plitvice Lakes, but it was too far away from Split, the town where we were staying. After reading about another national park, Krka, and seeing that it was much closer, we ended up booking a tour with Split Excursions. They are a local tour company with several different itineraries- we opted for the "Krka Waterfalls and Sibenik group tour" and it was an enjoyable experience. 

The bus left at a reasonable morning hour from Republic Square, a central meeting point in Split and we departed for Krka National Park. While the waterfalls are magnificent, they are insanely crowded in the summertime, so I recommend crossing the main footbridge and rather than go right towards the waterfalls (Skradinski buk), take a left where it is much calmer and an excellent place for a dip. We had plenty of free time at the waterfalls before meeting back at the bus. 

We were then taken to a beautiful small town within the park (Roski slap) for lunch at a konoba (Dalmatian style tavern). This was in the middle of an insane summer downpour and lightning/thunder storm so we ate a simple lunch inside the cozy restaurant. Everything was from the area including local meats, cheeses, crusty bread, olive oil, wine, and dangerously strong local spirits. 

After lunch, we had the opportunity to explore this area of the park, Roski slap, where it was much more peaceful. It is home to many unique birds and plant life.

At this point, the clouds had parted and we were treated to an insanely beautiful vista of a monastery.

We then headed to the beautiful town of Sibenik, where we saw the St. Jacob's Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and also had ample free time for exploring the town and enjoying an aperitif by the seaside. All in all, I'd recommend this tour if you are staying in Split and have limited time to explore on your own.

Comptoir des Mers in Paris

We're smack in the middle of oyster season, which gives me the perfect opportunity to talk about one of my favorite seafood spots in Paris, Comptoir des Mers in the Marais. Several special memories have taken place in this small restaurant, including the moment I received the amazing news from my friends that they were engaged! I also had the chance to share this place with my mother who then proclaimed that she had the best oysters of her life here.
Not to be missed: any of the seafood carpaccios (their tuna is a standout), fine de Claire oysters, heaping seafood platters, and their crisp white wines like Sancerre

Comptoir des Mers is located at 1 Rue de Turenne in Paris's 4th arrondissement. 

A Food Tour in Lisbon: Grapes & Bites

 

In preparation for my trip to Portugal last summer, I diligently studied up on vinho verde. I use the term "study" loosely, but it made a great afterwork apertif. Vinho verde, literally "green wine", is the term used to describe young wine. It has just a hint of effervescence to it and a low alcohol content, making it the perfect wine to enjoy after a sweltering summer day.

I wanted to learn more about the food and wine history of Portugal so I decided to take a private food history tour of Lisbon, through the tour company Your Friend in Lisbon. In addition to learning local history and sampling specialties (including ginjinha, caracois-- otherwise known as garden snails, and the satisfyingly decadent pastel de nata), my affable guide Alex closed up our tour with a fabulous offering at Grapes & Bites in the Bairro Alto district. 

The friendly owners brought out two boards of amazing meats including pata negra and one with roasted pepper swirls. I tried local cheeses, nuts, and sauces (including an addictive pepper jam, which sadly didn't make it through airport security). Alongside this smorgasboard, I was treated to several different olive oils, fresh olives, and of course, a vinho verde tasting. 

At the end, they brought me a glass of port, though I had my doubts since I don't like dessert wines. Although sweet, it wasn't overly so and it had a smooth finish and a lot of depth- you might even call me a converted port fan. 

If you find yourself in Lisbon this summer, I highly recommend this informative and interactive tour-- it was the best money I spent while in Lisbon. 

Café du Grütli: Fondue in Lausanne

The gloomy October weather in Lausanne didn't stop us from enjoying the city. It did, however, make us crave comfort food, and what better way to indulge in Switzerland than with fondue? Upon recommendation by a salesperson at the Globus department store, we headed to Café du Grütli on our last evening. 

I love restaurants run by a husband-and-wife team and we instantly felt welcomed by the friendly pair as we walked in the door. The humble and cozy cafe specializes in traditional Swiss dishes and despite an obnoxiously loud and drunk British man a few tables away, we appreciated our dinner. Bread and melted cheese may not be the most complete meal (at least from the point of view of nutritionists), but I can't think of a better combination. 

I was thrilled that Café du Grütli had Gruyère double cream on offer. (I was determined to try it after hearing David Lebovitz write about it.) A true Swiss dessert, double cream is not for the faint of heart. (In Switzerland, it is regulated and must be at least 45% fat content.) I like to think its richness is meant to give sustenance to hearty Swiss mountaineers. It comes with meringues and you can simply spoon the cream on top. While overconsumption of Gruyère double cream could definitely lead to a heart attack, I can't think of a better way to go. (Well, maybe with kaymak.)

Café du Grütli is located at Rue de la Mercerie 4 in Lausanne. Reservations recommended.

Pom & Flora Cafe in Stockholm

My favorite food spot in Stockholm happened to be just down the street from our apartment. Pom and Flora Cafe is the most darling brunch/lunch hangout in Stockholm's Södermalm neighborhood.  We first stopped in on a weekend morning and the owner was so sweet, taking time during the busy brunch rush to help us out, item by item, with a translation of the Swedish menu. Each brunch came with a "bread basket" of homemade biscuits (made on site) and hearty breads sourced from local bakeries. We also got homemade ginger-orange marmalade, yogurt with berries, nuts & seeds, a meat & cheese plate, lattes, and fresh-squeezed juice.  Everything was delicious.  The restaurant is small and fills up quickly with neighborhood residents, children, and babies. We felt right at home.

When leaving, the owner suggested we come back to try the lunch. On our last day, we did just that and enjoyed tasty chicken curry sandwiches, a tuna-sesame-humus salad, and a unique bread salad with mozzarella and pesto that featured three different types of pickled tomatoes. 

The owner mentioned that the cafe has been open for about nine months and she created it because she didn't think Stockholm had a place of its kind. (She was influenced by the idea of the "Le Pain Quotidien" cafes.) I don't know exactly when I'll be in Stockholm again, but I'll make sure my first meal is at Pom & Flora.

Pom and Flora Cafe is located at Bondegatan 64 in Stockholm

Self-Serve Laundromat in Lausanne

While I'm aware that the subject of this post may not be the most enthralling, I hope it proves useful to travelers passing through Lausanne, Switzerland.  After one too many luggage horror stories, mostly involving Fiumicino Airport, I've reformed over the last few years and become a carry-on enthusiast.  Often times (especially on longer trips or those that involve multiple climate changes), that means having to do laundry while on the road.  I actually enjoy this ritual as it makes me get into the mode of resident not tourist.  Laundromats are great places for people-watching and I've seen a multitude of characters while sitting on washers. I tried to do a search for laundromats before I went to Switzerland but came across discouraging results.  So during my trip last month, I was pleasantly surprised to find this self-serve "laverie" right in the center of town.  

We loaded up the machines and one by one, slowly dropped our franc coins down the slots. My brother's machine started up without a hitch. I, however, was unable to get my next coin down as there was a jam. And too bad the machine doors lock once they've been closed.  I started to panic as our flight out of town was that afternoon. Well, at least I wasn't too attached to the particular clothes in the machine. I called the number listed on the wall and a man said he'd be over "dans un petit moment." That turned into 30 minutes- we asked another woman in laundromat and she said she was a regular and called him up. "He's coming," she said.  In the meantime, my mom went to the kebab place across the street to borrow a butter knife.  We tried to push the franc down the slot but to no avail. Eventually the owner arrived with his son and he proceeded to open up the coin machine and unjam the slot. He put our clothes in for free and apologized for the situation. I heard him speaking Tunisian Arabic to his son and asked him if he was from there. Yes, I shamelessly pulled out my Tunisian card-it's always served me well and this was no exception.  We all had a long discussion about Swiss society, the situation in Tunisia v. Egypt, and of course food.  

When we came back to transfer our clothes to the dryers, he asked us when we were leaving town as he wanted to invite us over for couscous. Had we not had to leave for Stockholm that afternoon, we would have happily dined at Kamel's house that evening. And that, is why doing laundry while traveling can be fun.

Kamel's Laverie is located at 26 Rue du Maupas in downtown Lausanne.  It's self-service, opened 7/7 from 7am-10pm.

Some tips: Bring your own soap because the detergent machine was completely sold-out. It's 6 francs for a wash (7 for hot temperatures) and 6 for a dry cycle.

Le Grenier à Pain Bakery in Paris- Montmartre

During my two years spent in Paris, I came across some fine pastries.  I would often find a bakery where I liked one item, but then the others offerings didn't shine as much.  When I was in town for a visit last year, I stumbled across Le Grenier à Pain in Montmartre.  It's a small individually-owned chain but don't let that fool you- everything I sampled that day was superb.  From the savory tomato and cheese bread to the moist raspberry financier and the madeleine with a hint of orange, my mouth was constantly watering for more.  The sweet women behind the counter were just an added bonus. 

Le Grenier à Pain is located at 38 Rue des Abbesses in the 18th (Paris)

Groot Vlaenderen in Bruges

Groot Vlaenderen is a dark, intimate pre and after-dinner bar in Bruges (just outside the Markt) that does cocktails really well, and at a decent price point.

 A really good margarita

The sleek interior is beautiful and cozy with lots of candlelight and this impressive chandelier.

 

Groot Vlaenderen is located at Vlamingstraat 94 in Bruges

Amsterdam

Despite getting sick during my trip to Amsterdam last year, I really liked the feel of the city.  I think I would enjoy it even more in the summer.  After getting the hang of watching out for bikes, the city started to grow on me, fever and all.  Some highlights of my stay included: a concert at the Concertgebouw, the Van Gogh Museum and Anne Frank's house, the floating flower market, wandering the endless canals, and finally, a (centuries-old!) quirky pharmacy right near our hotel.  I went in for cough drops and came out feeling like I'd traveled back in time.  I definitely want to return to this shop, Jacob Hooy and Co., next time I'm in town.  For more on Amsterdam, check out this post on a delicious local bakery, and here for a recap of a tasty Indonesian-influenced meal.  Below are some pictures I took.