Cooking Class in Malaga

It's no secret that I love food tours and have written about my positive experiences with them here, here, here, and here. This past August, I really wanted to do a food tour with Devour Malaga, the same company I used for my amazing tours in Madrid and Barcelona. Unfortunately, due to the Malaga feria (a crazy shit show of a "festival" which merits its own post), no tours were operating that week. After a little online sleuthing, I was happy to discover a company called Spain Food Sherpas that was offering a tapas cooking class so I quickly signed up along with three of my travel buddies.

The cooking school is located in the funky art district of Malaga and we were led there by Mayte, a Spain Food Sherpas representative. The kitchen is open, airy, and spacious, and there were multiple stations which allowed each group to contibute to the cooking process. Before starting the cooking portion of the class, however, we enjoyed an extra virgin olive oil tasting of different Spanish oils ranging from grassy to peppery. 

A wonderful mother-son duo were our teachers for the day, showing us how to prepare fresh gazpacho, prawns al pil-pil, Spanish omelette, and meatballs with a traditional almond sauce. I really enjoyed how hands-on the class was, with plenty of opportunity for interaction with the teachers. The highlight was sitting at the table and trying our dishes, sipping on refreshing local white wine from Antequera, and enjoying the company of the other participants, who were from England/Ireland and Germany. The day after the class, we received the recipes in our inbox and I plan on making everything soon. I highly recommend Spain Food Sherpas if you're looking for a food experience in Malaga!

Video of gambas sizzling in action

Barcelona Guide

I'd wanted to go to Barcelona for the longest time and I finally made it happen last summer. It was everything I'd hoped it to be and a lot more. (I was a bit weary about it being overrun with tourists, but thanks to the neighborhood of both my hostel and hotel, I had a great experience and can't wait to return.) Here's what I did and would do again! 

Where to stay:

Hostel One Paralelo- This is hands down one of the best hostels I've stayed in. They have a great family dinner every night, nightly bar hopping events, and awesome staff. Between the warm community vibe of the other guests and the lovely Poble Sec neighborhood, I wasn't ready to leave and move to a hotel when my other traveling partners arrived in Barcelona. (In fact, the day after I checked out, I brought my friend back to the hostel for another pub crawl and we were welcomed with open arms.)
Hostal Live- This is the hotel we stayed in after our amazing stay at Hostel One. It is clean, reasonably priced, and has friendly staff. The neighborhood is also outside of the touristy Las Ramblas area.

What do see/do:

Sagrada Familia- A MUST. While it can be overwhelming to feel like you have to visit every church/cathedral you see in Europe, you can't forgive yourself if you leave Barcelona without seeing this awe-inspiring masterpiece. You need to book your timeslot in advance (online).

Park Guell- Another must-do although the crowds can be crazy. (Again, you need to book online in advance as tickets are limited.)

Food Tour with Devour Barcelona- I first used this great company in Madrid and I'm pleased to report that they've recently expanded their tours to include Barcelona. We had an excellent guide who walked us through the Gracia neighborhood and showed us some real gems.

Beach day at Barceloneta Beach- While other areas of Spain have far more beautiful beaches than those of Barcelona's, there's something to be said for an amazing city that is located on a nice beach. If you have the time, plan to spend part of an afternoon here and unwind.

Boqueria Market- Yes, this place is insanely touristy and crowded but it is fun to do a quick visit and grab one (or three) of their amazing juices. I preferred the Gracia market as it was more low-key and the selection was equally unrivaled.

Where to eat:

Quimet y quimet- Come here for a standing-room only bite to eat and drink. The place fills up extremely quickly and the hours can be a bit unpredictable so try to call ahead if you're not already in the neighborhood. The family behind the counter is jovial and helpful, even if you don't speak a word of Spanish or Catalan. Try the preserved foods or any of the sandwiches they have on offer. (Tip- if you're staying at the hostel mentioned above, this tapas bar is only a 2-minute walk away.)

Cal Pep- Go here if only so you can have the best white anchovies of your life and die happy.


Where to go out at night:

XiX bar- Just down from Plaza Espanya, this gin and tonic bar has a lengthy menu of gins and top-shelf tonics, with Fever Tree being among the latter. Along the bar, they have various bottles of infused gin (think peppercorns, cinnamon, and citrus peels) and on the back wall, you can find the more "pure" gins.

Los Juanele- Flamenco bar -This is an authentic hideaway in central Barcelona (we were the only non-Spaniards and also the only under-40 year olds). There is an unmarked door so don't be discouraged if you can't find the place on the first try. We sat at the bar and had the sweetest bartender all night. A jamon and cheese plate with gin-tonics was on the menu for us and he treated us to shots at the end of the night. It was so fun to see cute older Spanish couples dance flamenco the entire evening.

Opium- For a fun way to end the night dancing, this is one the mega clubs on Barceloneta beach. You can be sure the music will be good (one night, we got to see Sander Van Doorn) and if you're like us, you can cap it off with a 5am swim in the Mediterranean. (Just be sure that no enterprising pickpockets try to snag your belongings which almost happened to us!)

Bar Marsella- Supposedly one of the city's oldest hangouts, this timeless absinthe bar is a real treat. (We stopped here as part of my hostel's pub crawl.) Try to play a game of "concentration" with the elderly bartender- you won't win.

 

Montjuic Fountains/Park- Take a bottle of cava and enjoy it on the steps above the fountain or in the park with a view at sunset. The night we were there, we got to see a group of Spanish folks squaredancing. My Texas travel buddies joined right in.


Barcelona- we will be back!!!!

Spring in Sevilla

{Locals dressed in their finest having an afternoon drink before heading to the Feria}

Yesterday's Sunday Times article on Semana Santa got me nostalgic about my lovely trip to Seville last April when I was living in Paris. I had always wanted to go to Spain, and Andalucian history and culture was right up my alley.  After nearly getting my flight cancelled due to the Icelandic volcano, I finally arrived and it did not disappoint.  I was there during Feria de Abril, so hotel prices skyrocketed and I ended up staying in an apartment rental during the first three days, and switching to a hotel after the conclusion of the fair.  

The Feria de Abril began as a cattle trading fair in the mid-1800s but is today  a week-long massive celebration that concludes Semana Santa, or Easter Holy Week.  Women and children dress in their finest 'flamenco' dresses, their hair done up in beautiful barrettes and flowers, and the men pull out all the stops in their finest suits.  The men of Seville were some of the most well put-together I have seen during my travels.  Hundreds and hundreds of decorated tents line the fairgrounds; we were not able to enter some as they are privately owned so we had to find municpal tents which were less exclusive but just as fun.I was also able to visit my friend K., who was wwoofing in the Andalucian countryside.  Here are my favorite things about Seville and Spain.  

{Inside one of the many tents, or casetas, at Feria de Abril}

{Adorable girl mid-twirl}

{Seville's finest}

{Fairgrounds at night}

Where to stay: I recommend a vacation apartment rental (I used FlipKey through Trip Advisor), otherwise there are many hotel options.  I stayed in Hotel Becquer, Calle Reyes Católicos 4, for the second half of my stay.  There is a nice, small rooftop pool, and it is only a ten-minute walk from the Catedral and all the main sights.  

{Rooftop pool at Hotel Becquer}

{Late night ice-cream in front of Hotel Becquer}

Where to eat: Dos de Mayo, Plaza la Gavidia, 6 , my absolute favorite tapas-style restaurant located in a quaint residential square filled with neighborhood children playing street soccer and grandmothers pushing strollers.  I stumbled upon it by chance and the boisterous servers behind the bar as well as the delicious food and cheap Rioja brought me coming back for more.  I was far too early the second time as they don't even open for dinner until 8pm staying true to Spanish form of late-night dining.  

Bar la Estrella, c/ Estrella 3, another tapas-style favorite where I had a late lunch on the patio across the street from the restaurant.  What to order: langostinos con aguacate (avocado stuffed with prawns), camembert frito (fried camambert cheese topped with raspberry jam).  The prices can't be beat at this place.

{Amazing fish kebab with roasted peppers from Dos de Mayo}

{Delicious plates at Bar La Estrella including fried camembert}

{Outside dining at San Marco Restaurant, set in a former 12th century Arab bathhouse}

What to do: See the famous Santa Maria Cathedral and the Moorish Giralda Tower.  Stroll the gardens at the Reales Alcázares.  Enjoy a lovely late-afternoon experience at the Aire de Sevilla, c/Aire, 15, an Arab bathhouse in the old Santa Cruz district.  Stand at a bar for an afternoon snack of churros and hot chocolate.  If you are in Seville during the Feria de Abril, you can't miss it.  Follow the crowds across the river until you see the bumper-to-bumper buses shuttle everyone to the fair.  You will know when you have arrived.  Wander the fairgrounds and pick a tent that suits you.  Inside the tents, tables are hard to come by, but once you snag a spot, do as the locals do and have the specialty fino (dry, white sherry) or a glass of manzanilla wine.

{Traditional drinks inside the caseta}

{Inside the Reales Alcázares}

{Exterior of Aire de Sevilla, Arab baths}

{Courtyard at Aire de Sevilla}

Where to party: The Feria de Abril has a nightlife of its own, but if you happen to be there another time of year, Disco Catedral, Cuesta del Rosario 12, is a nice bar and lounge with a good DJ, comfortable cushions, and an international, young crowd.  You don't have to be a guest to whisk yourself up the elevator at Hotel Doña Maria, c/Don Remondo, 19, and have a late-night drink on the rooftop terrace while taking in a magnificent view of the Cathedral.

{View from rooftop bar at Hotel Doña Maria}

{Couches at Disco Catedral}

{Interior, Disco Catedral}