Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome

Flavio al Velavevodetto is an experience from start to finish. The restaurant is located in Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, which was just across the river from where were staying, and the setting is beautiful. If you're dining there in the summer, I recommend the patio which is surrounded by flowers. Each of the pasta dishes we had was superb including the summery tomato one above. You won't regret their take on cacio e pepe as well.

We wanted to try a Lazio wine and the lore of "Est! Est! Est!" always intrigued me, but we were a little disappointed in the one above. The first bottle tasted corked and the servers agreed, but the second bottle wasn't much better. I'd heard that service here could be hit or miss and while some of the people were a bit stuffy, we had an enjoyable dinner. Reservations are essential so call ahead.

"Eat With" in Rome- Dining with Locals

There's an "airbnb" for everything these days and I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing. Connecting with locals while traveling adds so much more to the experience and "Eat With" (an online platform and community that connects travelers with locals who like to cook) is no exception. While in Rome last July, we were fortunate to attend Giovanna's "Roman Dinner" on her beautiful rooftop terrace in the Prati neighborhood near the Vatican. We were a group of four travelers and there was a solo German traveler who attended as well. Giovanna's boyfriend and friend (and her turtle!) rounded out the guests. The meal was delicious from start to finish and the dishes she chose to make were perfect for the very hot weather we'd been having, even by Rome standards. Many of the dishes were family recipes passed down to her and incorporated vegetables and herbs that she grew on her terrace. She was the quintessential Italian host and even brought out some delicious cheese and meats when one of the people in our group revealed he didn't like veal. While Giovanna is a museum educator by day, it's clear that her passion for cooking does not take the backseat. In addition to the many "Eat With" dinners she hosts regularly, she also writes a food blog documenting her recipes. 

Eat With is expanding to many countries but their biggest base is in Israel, Spain, and Italy, so if any of those destinations is on your list, I highly recommend signing up for a dinner.

 Grilled eggplant

 Potatoes with rosemary from her roof garden 

 Vegetable lasagne with tomatoes from her roofgarden

Veal saltimbocca and a simple salad with delicious lettuce from--you guessed it--her roof garden

A delicious zabaglione, her grandmother's recipe, which she kindly handwrote for the German guest

 A lovely evening!

Avoiding Tourist Traps in Trastevere

Walking through Rome's Trastevere neighborhood at night is magical,  but many of the restaurants leave a lot to be desired. I can't count how many bad microwaved meals I've had here- some reminiscent of Chef Boyardee. 

On my latest trip to the Eternal City, I was a bit luckier. 

First up? Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina. Katie Parla guided me to this gem tucked away on one of Trastevere's narrow backstreets. The place is run by three kind women who offered to cut our sandwiches in three for my two friends and me. 

What to order: The squid ink bun sandwich with mozzarella, fig jam, basil. It is probably one of the best sandwiches I have ever eaten. A tomato and burrata sandwich was fantastic as well. 

Tip: It's a tiny space so go early to snag a seat.

Place: La Prosciutteria

This wine and prosciutto bar is nothing out-of-this-world but a safe bet in a neighborhood full of subpar offerings.

What to order: A heaping butcher block covered in sliced fruit, stinky cheeses, grilled vegetables, and more. They have a nice selection of wines by the glass as well.

Place: Antilla pub

Not traditional in any way, this bar had extremely nice bartenders and the best damn pina colada that side of the Atlantic. We found our way there several nights in a row and the corner location provided prime people-watching.

Il Gelato in Rome

Back in 1999, Rome was the first European city that stole my heart.  Paris may have since replaced it, by I'll always have a special place for the Eternal City. Rome has its fair share of the good, the bad, and the ugly when it comes to gelaterias.  One of my favorite gelato places is the humbly-named Il Gelato, located just off Via di Monte D'Oro.  I first tried their gelato on a humid, late summer afternoon in 2012.  Just after we arrived in the pristine shop, a huge downpour deluged the cobbled streets of Rome. It couldn't have been better timing for my family and me. We took cover while sampling and purchasing many of the store's flavors. Because no one came into the shop during the storm, the friendly girl working there helpfully suggested her favorite flavors including celery. I sampled it and enjoyed the refreshing and crisp taste it left on my tongue.  Other unique flavors that day included habanero, ginger, and many cheese-infused flavors.  We also had a chance to have some of Il Gelato's delicious fresh-squeezed juice.  It may be a silly tourist attraction, but every time I'm in Rome, I throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain.  I've been pretty fortunate to have returned to Rome each time and I hope my next visit will include a return to Il Gelato as well.

Il Gelato is located at Largo Monte D'Oro 28 in Rome.

An Afternoon in Rome

Rome was the first major city that captured my heart, during my first visit over 12 years ago.  I've been fortunate to visit several times since then and never tire of this ancient metropolis.  From walking across the lively Ponte Milvio every night back to the hotel, to eating fried zucchini blossoms and Roman-style pizza al taglio, I love this place.  So this summer when our flight back to the U.S. left at 6am, we decided to come up to Rome a day early from the south.  We took the free shuttle from our airport hotel into the city and made the most of our afternoon and evening there.  I made sure to make a requisite pit-stop at the insanely crowded Trevi fountain, because hey, after all these times, the coin tossing ritual seems to bring me back to this great city.  Here are some of my favorite moments from that day.

 Yes, that's a stroller with two real twin babies and a pet cat happily sandwiched in the middle.

 A simple yet delicious lunch of panini at Aristocampo on via della Piramide, just outside the city center.  We saw other diners eating fresh watermelon and tried to order it for dessert.  The waiter told us the cafe didn't offer it and pointed to a small fruit stall behind us.  After my mother was granted permission, she bought the watermelon, our waiter brought us a knife and plate, and we enjoyed the juicy treat at our table.

Bridge to Trastevere on our way to dinner

Year after year, this never fails to amuse me--the line for the cigarette machine at night near the Ponte Milvio.